I was using these procedures the other day when the Grainfather alarm went off and caused me considerable panic. Another thing I noticed is that when you lift the splash guard to get to the controls underneath, the lid pushes up against the bracket the controller is mounted in, lifting the controller up. This wouls make a difference. With my current set up on the stove, I have all my recipes set up for Single Infusion with a Batch Sparge. Next brew day, we'll be sure to do that. I personally just use hot tap water with my Grainfather, and as soon as I lift the grain basket, I up the temp to 100c. What I haven't been able to get is the difference between the Grainfather sparge calculator and the BeerSmith sparge calculator.
Note that this is only an estimate, but it should give you some idea of whether you will need to adjust the mash pH using acid. I can chase up the beersmith profiles I have if you still want them but they really are only a rough guide I have found after a few brews you will work it out yourself with the info from your brew sessions. I also have seen several profiles floating around with varying levels of accuracy. That's approximately 5 hours from start to finish. I'm now a couple brews in with the Grainfather and it has worked out perfect. I think you need to work your way through your process and where your volumes change. Also, as someone mentioned, once you lift the mash backset, I turn both elements on and set for boil.
According to the instruction manual, the Grainfather should cleaned before its first real use. I really need to lower the malt pipe with shorter bolts but on the other hand im not sure if i want to because of the heat of the element. If you mouse over the colored balls they will show the proper range. Extremely happy with my purchase. Or do I basically just have to guess? I haven't compared this to a brew on my kitchen stove, but I think the stove actually boils the water a lot faster, so the time would be shorter. Alternatively maybe add an optimization function with the water profile, taking the water profile of my water and identify what i need to adjust to get optimal efficiency. When I save the profile, how does this flow through to future recipes sometimes I target 23L for bottling beers, or 19L for kegging? Your mash tun then becomes an electric boil kettle.
Toward the end, I decided to try a couple of things to see if they helped. That seems to be in line with what I saw, so perhaps the device is working correctly and it's my expectations that are out of line. You should be able to do the same. Adventures in Homebrewing shipped quickly, kept me up to date on the order, and were quick to answer a question I had along the way. I want to try to have a good understanding of what to do, for when I actually get my system. I've read reviews online where people have tried to brew with it before doing this cleaning step, and their beers tasted terrible. Mash pH Measurement and Adjustment On the recipe mash tab bottom right is the section for Mash pH Acid Additions.
I thought the initial payment was just for 12 months and then you had to pay again every 12 months? The others have some good procedures as well. It will show alkalinity and how hard your water is. The mash temperature and boil are all controlled precisely with an electric heating element. I think its alot more custom than you think. So prefixing the name with a number may not be necessary for most users. Okay I just saw that in my beersmith app, so I'll make sure to use that. Clearly our water pressure is too high for this connector to handle.
So prefixing the name with a number may not be necessary for most users. Grainfather Control Panel and display - hard to read outdoors An important note to potential purchasers. I'm not tied to my computer that way and I can go dick around elsewhere without missing a step. I honestly haven't timed the fly sparge but it seemed to take a lot longer than I anticipated. I set it up, hooked it to our garden hose, and turned on the spigot. You are using an unsupported browser! To the right of the ions is the water analysis block. It allows for up to 6 gallons and as I am a bit of a mad scientist I brew 6 gallons and cut them into a 5 gallon batch with my primary yeast and a 1 gallon with a yeast I want to compare.
Here is the equipment profile that matches what I have described. That seems to be the way it has to be, but don't worry what am I saying, it scares he hell out of me!. If you have the money and want to buy a quality single vessel brewing unit this is it! Thanks for joining me on the. Not necessarily very practical, but it works. Can you confirm this is the case? I did learn that you can take the controller inside where you can see it , set the temperature, and carry it back outside to use.
It still worked fine just a minor inconvenience. This seemed to be the limit of the device's ability to heat the water. Maybe this is a BeerSmith question, but I figured I'd toss it out here and see if anyone found a way to get these numbers closer - I hate having to use multiple tools. It will show the water profile used, water pH from the profile and estimated mash pH for the water and grain bill. Supporting members have ability to turn off most advertisements among other benefits, such as Supporting Member moniker, access to private forums, unlimited attachment and private message space. Sun Feb 24, 2019 1:50 pm… Seems this problem mash steps getting out of order in Beersmith is something not everyone experiences I do! Will Robobrew be the same? I want to be able to optimize efficiency rather than recreate styles.
For those who want to geek out — the including a comparison of various water tools. Good values will be blue and poor values in yellow borderline or red out of range. To continue using our website, please update to a more modern browser. My volumes gets me 28L preboil, 25L post 60 min boil. I heat my sparge water. For extract brewers I make the case.
There is lots of research out there that shows you do not actually need to heat your sparge water at all. Using Grainfather Connect is optional. The mash pH should be in the range of 5. I'll accept that with recirculating mash systems it doesn't make any difference initially heating to mash temperature, not strike but decades of home-brewing means I still want to use strike temperature old dogs, new tricks, and all that. That said, we keep forgetting to turn on the burner to ramp up to the boil during the sparge so that's probably compounding the problem.